Fitopedia: An Encyclopedia of Fitting Adjustments for the Upper Body and Sleeve

This encyclopedic volume of fitting adjustments includes 70 adjustments with multiple options for refining the fit of the front or back garment and sleeve. It comes with instructions on how to fit, how to select a size, how to update corresponding pattern pieces, grading between sizes and more. Use it as a reference, or dive deep in to the world of fitting!

Fitopedia is different from other fitting resources in its language of fitting. Instead of describing fitting adjustments as something wrong with the person wearing the garment, it focuses on what the pattern is lacking in order to fit them. The sewist no longer needs to figure out if their body is a certain way, when it likely is not, to be able to discover the fitting solution they need. They can look up issues by what is wrong on the sample garment. Does the armhole gape? Is there a strainline pointing at the neck? Is it too loose across the back? Look up fitting issues by how they are described.

Each of the 70 fitting adjustments has a photo of the issue sewn in a garment and a sketch of the issue to highlight details of the fitting issue. Everything you need to know about the fitting issue and what needs to happen to the pattern to fix it and other corresponding pattern pieces is included.

Instructions for each fitting adjustment include every armhole or sleeve option when applicable, such as set-in armhole and sleeve, raglan armhole and sleeve, and cut-on sleeve. All shaping styles are included like darts to the waist, side seam, shoulder, or fish eye darts. Princess and panel seams to the armhole and shoulder are included. If other design elements such as yokes, V-necks, or wrap garments can be affected by the fitting issue, instructions are included to adjust these garment styles.

Once the pattern has been fixed with the fitting adjustment, there are other sections to updated corresponding pattern pieces. If the neckline changed in seam length or shape, consult the Updating Neckline Finishes section to update collars, facings, or plackets that sew to the neckline. If a sleeve opening has changed in seam length or shape, consult the Updating Sleeve Finishes section to update cuffs, flounces, bands, and hem shapes.

A special section on Dart Manipulation is included. Rotate, divide, or change a dart in to gathers or a pleat/tuck. Removing and adding darts is also included.

If you have ever struggled with sleeve fitting, Fitopedia is the perfect resource. Besides the 24 fitting adjustments with numerous possibilities for different sleeve styles, a special section devoted to the ease on a set-in sleeve has been included. This Cap Ease Calculator will walk you through distributing ease evenly and adding or removing what is necessary.

Dive in to the technical world of fitting in this detailed book or just consult it for the occasional issue.

The author's 35 years of apparel industry experience combined with her experience in the home sewing world give her unique skills in helping sewists get the fit they want. She helps people worldwide look at fitting, drafting and sewing with a logical and encouraging approach through her community, videos, and workshops.