Eating to Extinction: The World's Rarest Foods and Why We Need to Save Them

Eating to Extinction: The World's Rarest Foods and Why We Need to Save Them

誠品選書
出版日期:
2023/01/30
549
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紐約時報、華盛頓郵報、柯克斯書評推薦!為即將絕種的「糧食」和迫在眉睫的危機發聲

內容簡介

當全球農田風景愈來愈像,瀕危的不只是滋味 


義大利裔作者Dan Saladino擔任BBC美食記者多年,十幾年前因工作緣故回去他故鄉西西里附近盛產血橙的小村落,採訪當地的採收慶典,本來以為是回故鄉參加美食饗宴,但他實際與當地居民交流後,開始對飲食的趨一性產生憂慮。

當地的果園農夫們表示,這是他們最後一次採收,原因很簡單:血橙打不贏市場上多汁甜美的西班牙甜橙。而這大大影響他們的產業,有些人甚至決定放棄血橙,迎合市場需求。Dan Saladino認為,這樣的情況不僅僅是文化的斷層,更嚴重影響了食物的多元化,而這樣的情形,世界各地正在上演。

全世界的香蕉種類超過1500種,但流通世界貿易、市占率最高的香蕉只有一種:卡文迪許(Cavendish)種,而一種真菌則專門侵襲這種香蕉,導致嚴重的農損與糧食危機;烏俄戰爭爆發後,歐洲國家更是強烈感受到糧食供應短缺的迫切,因爲烏克蘭是小麥、大麥、玉蜀黍出產大國。

找出「稀有食物」的意義,在此刻更顯得必要,人們過於依賴單一的食物供給來源,一但遭遇氣候變遷和戰爭,就可能導致短缺,稀有食物指的並非像近期登上媒體版面的霸王具足蟲,而是我們不曾認識、卻代代存在於世界各國,由少數人民繼續傳承,種植或養殖的動植物種。

Dan Saladino與非政府組織The Ark of Taste 合作,踏上一段尋找即將消失的稀有食物之旅。

書裡他簡述了我們每天食用的食物,在綠色革命後(二戰後為加速糧食生產而開始的品種改良)產生的後果,而重頭戲則是他橫跨歐亞非紐澳大陸,探索那些至今仍活躍於當地的食物。在土耳其安納托利亞尋找從兩河流域時期就開始被種植的Kavilca小麥、在非洲坦尚尼亞追隨蜂蜜獵人尋找Hadza野蜜、在阿爾巴尼亞高山尋找稀有的羊奶乳酪Mishavine…

每一段故事就像一次時光旅行,深入了解地方食物的記憶與文化傳承,以及當地農家如何維護並持續推廣傳統食材。Dan Saladino 認為,他對此表示樂觀,因為歐美各國用世界組織也開始關注食物多樣性的重要,持續為微小但重要的糧食物種努力。



Dan Saladino’s Eating to Extinction is the prominent broadcaster’s pathbreaking tour of the world’s vanishing foods and his argument for why they matter now more than ever.

Over the past several decades, globalization has homogenized what we eat, and done so ruthlessly. The numbers are stark: Of the roughly six thousand different plants once consumed by human beings, only nine remain major staples today. Just three of these―rice, wheat, and corn―provide 50 percent of all our calories. Dig deeper and the trends are more worrisome still: 95 percent of milk consumed in the United States comes from a single breed of cow, while one in four beers drunk around the world is the product of one brewer.

In Eating to Extinction, the distinguished BBC food journalist Dan Saladino travels the world to experience and document our most at-risk foods before it’s too late. From an Indigenous American chef refining precolonial recipes to farmers tending Geechee red peas on the Sea Islands of Georgia, the individuals profiled in Eating to Extinction are essential guides to treasured foods the rest of us have forgotten or didn’t know existed. Take honey―not the familiar product sold in plastic bottles, but the wild honey gathered by the Hadza people of East Africa, whose diet consists of eight hundred different plants and animals and who communicate with birds to locate bees’ nests. Or consider murnong―once the staple food of Aboriginal Australians, this small root vegetable with the sweet taste of coconut is undergoing a revival after nearly being driven to extinction. And in Sierra Leone, there are just a few surviving stenophylla trees, a species now considered crucial to the future of coffee.

Throughout this original and entertaining book, Saladino shows that when foods become endangered, we risk the loss of not only traditional foodways, but also flavors, smells, and textures that may never be experienced again. And the consolidation of our foods has other steep costs, including a lack of resilience in the face of climate change, pests, and parasites. Our food monoculture is a threat to our health―and to the planet. In response, Saladino provides a road map to a food system that is healthier, more robust, and, above all, richer in flavor and meaning.
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作者介紹

Dan Saladino

Dan Saladino is a renowned food journalist who has worked at the BBC for twenty-five years. For more than a decade he has traveled the world recording stories of foods at risk of extinction—from cheeses made in the foothills of a remote Balkan mountain range to unique varieties of rice grown in southern China. His work has been recognized by the James Beard Foundation, the Guild of Food Writers, and the Fortnum & Mason Food and Drink Awards.

各界推薦

"Eating to Extinction is a celebration in the form of eclectic case studies . . . What Saladino finds in his adventures are people with soul-deep relationships to their food. This is not the decadence or the preciousness we might associate with a word like “foodie,” but a form of reverence . . . Enchanting." ―Molly Young, The New York Times

"An immensely readable compendium of food history, cultural lore, agricultural science, and travelogue. There are new flavors to imagine and places to visit on every page." ―Richard Schiffman, The Christian Science Monitor

"Eating to Extinction tells the stories of dozens of . . . endangered tastes and makes a reasoned case for saving them in which nostalgia and sentimentality play very little part . . . Saladino has an 18-year-old backpacker’s willingness to light out for remote destinations far from the usual food-writer feeding troughs . . . [A] deeply humanist book . . . Saladino’s eye for detail is photographic when he is describing places and things." ―Pete Wells, The New York Times Book Review

"[An] impressively researched book . . . Saladino brings his subjects to life, even breaking bread with them as he seeks out these rare and important foods. His evocative deions make a culinary case for preserving them." ―Hannah Wallace, The Washington Post

"Fascinating . . . A delightful exploration of traditional foods as well as a grim warning that we are farming on borrowed time." ―Kirkus Reviews (starred review)

規格

誠品貨碼 / 2682341719001
ISBN13 / 9781250863096
ISBN10 / 1250863090
EAN貨碼 / 9781250863096
頁數 / 480
裝訂 / P:平裝
語言 / 3:英文
尺寸 / 20.6X13.6X2.2CM
級別 / N:無

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